Saturday, June 2, 2007

Who's Who

Work and play

Without the people I would not make it through the day. Just thinking about them makes me smile. It’s not the roaringly-hilarious kind of funny that I am talking about, but the chuckly-I-would’ve-never-imagined kind of funny. Each of them is like a private joke, and together that makes a lot of jokes – enough to get you through the day.

Before I came here I had brooded for hours, trying to ‘prepare’ myself for what I would find – in terms of the work, the people, the history, the war, the peace and the political process … and of course the ‘tribulations’ of doing humanitarian work in ‘Africa’. What I hadn’t even given a thought to were the people – not the Sudanese folk, but my co-workers. Yes of course they are a bunch of inefficient bureaucrats and yada yada yada, but without them, this story doesn’t even go half the way. They are important, you see – you learn about them and their experiences, as much as you learn to do your job. I think that it should be a part of your ToR that you spend at least 15% of your day gaining ‘anecdotal experience’! And their experiences and their circumstances are quite distinctive … they are of every ethnicity … they just been just about everywhere … speak every language possible (sometimes one person herself). Its like a mini UN or something … oh, hold on – it is!

Jocelyn and Emmanuel received me at the airport. Jocelyn is an HR assistant, and she is the quintessential Philippine in her 30s – round, chubby face, long black hair, synthetic floral printed shirt and white capris (which too, are of course Philippine in my mind). In an airy style she ordered Emmanuel to put my bags exactly where they should go. Then we whizzed around to everywhere I needed to be on Day 1… first the accommodations, and then in the office. Immaculate execution! Jocelyn loves routine … and rules! Emmanuel is chill, but all I saw then were his latest Matrix-style sunglasses – quite a rarity in Juba!

At the office, there was Peter Butili – Sudanese, smiling, short and stocky … upon introduction he was delighted to offer me the other desk at his office. I later found out that his delight was partially due to the fact that I had off-loaded one of his core responsibilities … but I’m not bitter. Peter can give you more local news and analysis in a half hour than can Anderson Cooper with his imitation of a speeding human train. And he knows people in every government office South Sudan … it shouldn’t be long before I meet the President.

Ditas (head HR) is also Philippine. She smiled more than actually telling me what exactly the Code of Conduct and ToR that I signed would do to me. She said it was mostly common sense anyway. She makes life easy … she was the one that told me they wear sandals to work, prompting me to bring all of my open, summer footwear. She was so casual that she even offered her phone code to call internationally! Yum yum.

Our office head, Raja, towers above everyone there – he is authoritative, but is also witty, warm and un-intimidating! If you can put those qualities together, you’ll understand why I find him the most unruffled person I have come across. I don’t know why no one has thought of this yet, but if we were to put him between the Turks and Greeks in Cyprus, that problem would be solved before the end of the summer! And to top it off, he introduced me to all the department heads himself!
I wanted to start the Raja Fan Club, but apparently it has been there since he joined.

Now with the second-in-charge at the office, I didn’t have such a wonderful unification. Ann’s Guyanese, and a power-woman. Her frame and her looks belie her tough personality. On first encounter, I remember wondering how she managed not to stop traffic in Juba … but as I went on around the office minding my own business, I was duly enlightened of her policing abilities that would be sufficient to send any traffic – even Juba’s – right on its way!
It happened like this – with or without reason, I had stepped out of my office into the hallway … with none of the world’s greater problems on my shoulder at that point, I was returning quite absentmindedly when I passed Ann and three other colleagues … she stopped and turned back to ask me who I was. Then she asked if I worked here … which should ideally have given me the clue about who she was, but I ignored all interventions from my sixth sense, including the fact that the others who knew me, didn’t jump in to do introductions … and began explaining to her in very simple terms what I do at this office … she stared at me quite hard, and the colleagues’ eyebrows went higher and higher … but I continued missing the point. Ann said nothing – and thinking that she wasn’t understanding, I might’ve simplified my project details for her … arrghh. Situma behind her, was going slightly blue from the need to laugh, and had there been a table separating us, I would certainly have received a sound kick under it, but no such respite graced us that day, and I went on explaining – and embarrassing – myself for a good two and one-quarter of a minute! I might’ve stopped after realizing that it was more a monologue than anything else … and she continued briskly again, followed by the others, … walking right into the office of the second-in-charge. I had just explained to my semi-boss what my job was. Life can be cruel.

My office with Peter Butili looks like it might only be a temporary arrangement. Thanks to my loud mouth combined with my low-life status, I might have actually talked my way out of this office. A glass window separates Peter Butili and me from our number one man of business, Girmai. He was on holiday, and my first three weeks were spent in concern about his absence as I needed to get his help on something. But when he arrived, he spent no time in informing me that he has absolutely nothing against interns, but he would like someone else doing my job – because obviously my job was extremely important to the office – and that he would also like to move in another employee to my location. Mm-hmm – I said I completely understand if he needs to have his supervisees near him … but I guess until that point, I didn’t understand, because before we ended our short but productive meeting he informed me that I need to keep my voice down for the time being because noise carried. Oops. So I’d gone and lost myself my office.
But my consolation was that Raja had assigned me my duties, so he obviously knew my abilities! Hah!

The rest of the people are crazy in their own way I’m sure, but I’ll wait to find out about them a little more.

What may not be the ideal setup, but has to happen in Juba is that there’s no work-life demarcation. You spend 10 to 11 waking hours at the office, and then you return to camp to find most of the people there, so it is imperative that you at least not take an intense dislike to anyone! I am happy to say that everyone was just too wonderful my first week … Situma, our Air Ops guy asked me to do a headstand, and when I did not, proclaimed me a sane person, and invited me to join the group of the real crazy people. The Crazies usually sit in one place, and find names for the others … someone who’s eating too much jam – ‘jam finish-ist’ … one who is forgetting to pay their share – ‘bill-avoidist’ … someone who is always late – ‘tardist’. And believe me, in this place, there’s no avoiding the public eye … everyone is in everyone’s face. Then there’s George from Cameroon who is possibly the loudest person in Juba … if you’re going to argue with him, you had better bring your spare pair of lungs, and your wit – last week, I saw him eating what looked like my leftovers … “George!!?!! What is THAT???? You’re eating my curry!”
“Ma friend, it is youh curry? I say your name is nowhere on it!”
“I don’t BELIEVE this! How could you DO THIS!”
“If you do not bee-leeve, I suggest you walk to the fridge and check inside, so you can beeh-leeve, before I eat my lunch! Do you want to go look now?? I’M WAITING!”
I could only fume and point my shoes at him.
“Little gahl! There’s nothing at the bottom of youh shoes!!”

Sigh. But when George is nice, he can also be quite charming … one time he asked why a nice person like me was here … wasn’t I too young? How would I survive? Of course, when I shut him up, he became even more curious and interested. Great I thought! I was setting myself up to be harassed by big men who were hardened by living in the field …
Fast forward two weeks –
Grace: “Farheen, please make him change the channel … this is enough!”
“George, change the channel”
“No!”
“george! Why noT?? You have the remote!”
“And SO?? Mah friend, I’m watching Africa Magic – cant you see!?”
“I can seee!! And I don’t want to see it!”
“You go change it!”
“George! …. Geor-ge! … Don’t let me get up”
“This GAHL!!!! Three of them in any house, and everyone will GO MAD!”

*Victory!*

And there’s Etienn! He is just there... for everyone to throw their demands at him, just because he is the elec. engineer! That has partly to do with the fact that all our troubles stem from stopped air-conditioning, stopped geyser, stopped air-conditioning, busted light, non-functional fan, stopped air-conditioning, fridge droning, stopped air-conditioning, and stopped air-conditioning. Poor thing – he and I are good friends because of the bonding we had when I had to be rescued from a ditch. Although ditches are a common phenomenon and quite visible, but why we found ourselves in this one is just fate! But thanks to that, I have another friend.

Eva is my buddy at the camp. She is Czech, and I think established her own identity slowly but surely, so I just follow her meekly! When she had first told everyone that she was going jogging in Juba in the morning, the collective jaw at the camp dropped with such a clang!=. But of course when she continued to do it, they all forgot about it. Jocelyn, with her love for rules, had made such a fuss that one would think Prince Harry had escaped to fight in Iraq! But Jocelyn keeps her own self busy, trying to control a campful of Crazies … each morning she threatens to leave for work at 7:15 which gets everyone scuttling about like squirrels because that threat could be painful. She dispatches the vehicles. But invariably, she delays and takes us with her. Most days a second vehicle also comes at 7:45 to pick up the stragglers. One of my best memories is the day when my alarm malfunctioned and I woke up at 7:45! Oh my … this should be interesting … I stepped out to see Jocelyn getting into the last car.

“AAAAIIIIIIIIIIIIII!!!!!!”

If my late appearance didn’t give her an immediate heart-attack, then my relaxed attitude was about to! I had broken the 7:15 rule – heck I’d broken the 7:45 one! She looked as though she might call the firebrigade to air-lift me to work. But firebrigades don’t do airlifts. And there are no fire-brigades here. Neither are there air-strips at work. So there was nothing to do. Just a little bit of unnecessary excitement. Nothing happened of course – another car came later, and I just watched a little more tv that morning.

It feels like a waste if you aren’t using all that security language you’re taught, and the emergency talk that’s thrown around! Its not our fault that we sometimes feel the need to have our little situations too!

The car is leavinggggggg!!! Right now!!!

May 7, 2007

I know I haven’t explained what Phase III security clearance means when you are out in the field with UNHCR but on a scale of 1 to 5, it is nothing to shrug at. You shrug – and Gordon Brown the Destructor sends you a howler. (We will talk about Gordon Brown’s tendencies some other time for sure.)

What I want to impress upon you is that the security clearance level in Juba right now keeps our young, sprightly souls confined within walls and fences that have been sniffed out by the likes of Gordon … aka, you can only go to certain places, for certain things, at certain times of the day, with certain people, and only by certain means. The certainty of each of those requirements is however complete. So when it comes to minding your own business, you have to have a ‘means’ whereby you can do it or else you just stay put where you are and listen to the radio traffic of other agencies for entertainment! In our case, the means would be the UNHCR vehicles.

Ever since I stepped into one of these, I’ve wanted to write about them. I’m sure it is of very little interest to the average observer, but I find them to be a religion – I worship them! They fascinate me! There are a number of these vehicles that work communally for. That means you have to wait on a queue for them unless, that is, you can jump on a vehicle that is headed towards your desired part of town, after vowing the original requisitioner of the vehicle your first-born. (I’ll have to produce 9 off-springs in the recent future to pay off my standing debt at this time.) If you don’t get my drift already, these vehicles are our life-blood here, the key to our destiny and destination. And they are in limited circulation.

Apart from being fitted with all kinds of fancy gizmos – that can transmit and decode all kinds of HF and VHF wavelengths, but cannot play a simple cassette – these puppies are tough! Their suspensions are like rock. I suppose that is what is needed for the limitless string of potholes that are Juba roads in monsoon, but that is what also guarantees that your drive feels like those bikini-bull-rides at the rodeo, if you’ve ever seen one of those. An occupational hazard is hitting your head on the (literally) 15-ft high interior ceiling as you bump along to work in the morning. But you never use seat-belts … uh-huh! For safety and stability, you grab on to the interior handles along the windows. These handles are a blessing in other ways because the land cruiser is so high that I have to heave myself in by grabbing one of these!

All – barring none – of the UN vehicles are Toyotas. Toyota must do some amazing business with the humanitarian community; I wonder if they have won any awards. (I see some Range Rovers also, but I guess the UN is too destitute for those!) There are all different kinds of Toyotas though – Land Cruisers, Tacomas, Corollas and even Coronas, and they range anywhere between 15 and 3 years old. At UNHCR we only move in the land cruisers because of the number of people it can accommodate, and the proportion of our time we spend in the field.

Each vehicle must have a driver, who is local. He (she?) is aware of the local
language, geography and often the politics. You are to be accompanied by him to all public places and if he senses that something might be up, you’re outta there! My first driver from the airport was Emmanuel, and I now take all my demands to him. He’s a great guy, soft spoken, instructive, and endlessly patient. All the drivers have interesting stories as they are locals, and have been in different places during the war. As a testament to the drivers’ patience, I watch them drive the 5-speed land cruisers, never able to go above second gear. That’s a pity because these things are powerful! I’m also sure that given a chance they could off-road like a charm but mine-protocol bars us from ever stepping a wheel out of line.

The vehicles take diesel. For long journeys, they can store fuel like a camel. The 4x4s have two tanks, one in the back and one in front, and can take a total of 180 litres! They are fuelled only once every two weeks – now that’s uber-efficient … *swooning* … I love powerful cars! Iran might be drying up, but we at the refugee agency, have our own tankers! Our reserve capacity is 20,000 litres – beat that!

It’s probably a good thing that only ‘certain’ people can drive a vehicle around here – because otherwise I would have spent the next weeks trying to get myself cleared to be a driver. Besides, although navigation had been one of my strong points in Boston, I cannot seem to figure out where anything here is, ever! Until I am able to do that, life will appear to be a shuttling back-n-forth between the ‘islands’ of the UN, observing Juba – comfortably, sitting cross–legged inside the 4x4.